Apollo King just put a 100% wool three-piece suit with a semi-wide leg on the floor for $229 — in up to seven colors, sizes 38 through 60, regular and long. Here's what's in the line, why the cut matters right now, and which one to buy.

For years, Apollo King was the walking suit brand at CCO — the linen sets, the summer two-pieces, the outerwear. It did that job well. What it didn't do was tailored wool. That changed this month with the arrival of a new Apollo King wool suit line, and the first two pieces in it are not a cautious entry. They're three-piece, 100% wool, cut with the semi-wide leg that's been working its way back into menswear for two seasons, and priced at $229 — a number that, for a full three-piece in real wool with a double breasted vest, makes it one of the strongest values in the store.

Two suits, one price, and between them thirteen colors. This is the rundown.

The cut: why "semi-wide leg" is the detail that matters

Most of the suits that sold in the last decade were slim. Narrow lapels, short jackets, tapered trousers that finished at the ankle. That silhouette isn't gone, but it's no longer the only one, and the pendulum has been swinging back toward room — fuller trousers, longer jackets, a drape that moves when you walk instead of clinging when you sit.

The Apollo King wool suits are built for that shift without going all the way to a 1990s pleated bag. The pants are single-pleated and semi-wide: a straight, fuller leg from the hip down with a single pleat for ease across the front, finishing with a clean break rather than a puddle. It's the cut that looks right with a double breasted jacket (slim trousers under a DB jacket always looked top-heavy), it's the cut that's comfortable for a long day of sitting, and it's the cut that photographs the way the best-dressed men are photographing right now. Both suits in the line use it.

Suit one: the double breasted

The Apollo King 3-piece 100% wool double breasted suit is the flagship. The jacket is a six-button double breasted with a peak lapel and side vents — the full, classic DB configuration, not the softened four-button version. Under it, a six-button double breasted vest, so the suit holds its shape with the jacket off. And the fabric is 100% Super 150's wool, which is a grade most men never expect to see at this price — it's fine, soft, and drapes with real weight, which is exactly what a double breasted jacket and a semi-wide trouser need to look right.

Seven colors. Black, charcoal, and navy are the three to build a wardrobe on. Brown is the one that's having a moment and the most interesting of the solids. Then three patterns: a navy stripe, a brown stripe, and a grey windowpane — each one takes the suit from "I wore a suit" to "I wore that suit."

Wear it buttoned. A double breasted jacket is built to stay closed, and with the semi-wide leg under it the proportions are already balanced — a white or light blue shirt, a tie or no tie, and leather shoes with a bit of substance to them.

Suit two: the high fashion single breasted

The Apollo King 3-piece 100% wool high fashion suit is the more approachable of the two, and the one for the man who wants the new silhouette without the full double breasted commitment. The jacket is a two-button single breasted with a peak lapel and side vents — the peak lapel keeps it sharp while the single breasted front keeps it easy to wear open. The vest is where the design lives: six-button, double breasted, with a shawl lapel, which is an unusual and good-looking detail that reads as formal when the jacket comes off. Same single-pleated semi-wide leg pants. 100% wool.

Six colors, and this is the windowpane suit of the two. A solid black, then windowpane in brown, charcoal, grey, navy, and green. The windowpane is subtle at distance and clear up close — the kind of pattern that makes a suit look expensive without ever looking loud. Green windowpane is the one nobody else at the event will be wearing.

"A full three-piece in 100% wool, with a double breasted vest and a semi-wide leg, at $229. That's not a sale price. That's the price."

Sizes 38 to 60, regular and long

This is the part of the line that deserves its own paragraph. Both suits run from 38R through 60R, with longs from 40L through 60L. That's twenty-three sizes on a single suit, and it means the same cut, the same wool, and the same price are available to a 38 and a 60 — no separate big and tall version with fewer colors and a different fabric. Pants come six inches smaller than the jacket size (a 42 jacket comes with a 36 waist), lined to the knee, and unhemmed so they can be finished to your length. Use the Find My Size tool on either product page if you're between sizes; it accounts for build and height, not just chest.

Which one to buy

If you don't own a double breasted suit, buy the double breasted. It's the stronger piece, the Super 150's wool is the better fabric, and in navy or charcoal it's the suit you'll wear to every wedding, service, and dinner for the next five years. Add the navy stripe or grey windowpane when you want a second one with personality.

If you already have your solids covered and want pattern, buy the high fashion single breasted in a windowpane — brown or green if you want to be noticed, navy or charcoal if you want the pattern to stay a secret until someone's close enough to see it. The shawl-lapel vest is the detail you'll get asked about.

If you can swing both, the pair covers everything: the DB in a solid for the formal days, the single breasted windowpane for the days the suit is supposed to be the interesting part.

What to wear with them

The semi-wide leg changes one thing about the shoes: they need some presence. A sleek, pointed dress shoe looks small under a fuller trouser. A classic wingtip, a cap-toe oxford, a loafer with a real sole — those balance the leg. Shirts stay simple; the suits have enough going on. With the windowpanes, a solid shirt and a solid tie, or no tie at all. With the stripes, same rule. The suit does the talking.

Browse the full Apollo King collection at CCO for the walking suits and top coats that have been in the lineup for years — a camel Apollo King top coat over a navy Apollo King double breasted suit is about as complete as a cold-weather outfit gets.

The bottom line

The new Apollo King wool suit line is a real three-piece, in real wool, cut for the way suits are going, in enough colors and sizes to fit almost any man who walks in — at $229. It's the kind of launch that moves fast in the popular sizes. If one of the colors above is yours, now is the time.

Shop the Apollo King double breasted wool suit — $229 →

Shop the Apollo King high fashion wool suit — $229 →

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